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    • Handgun Stopping Power
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    • Semi Automatic Shotgun Vs. Pump Action Shotgun
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Handgun For Bear and Moose Defense

euthanasia_guidelines_for_cattle.pdf
File Size: 8170 kb
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10mm Auto Bear and Moose Defense.
​

Man survives two attacks by same grizzly.
​
http://www.newser.com/story/231965/grizzly-attacks-same-man-twice.html

Lady kills world record Bear with a .22 long

https://www.ammoland.com/2014/11/what-22-rifle-did-bella-twin-use-to-kill-a-world-record-grizzly-in-1953/

​Hunting Utah 2018  Are you getting excited for the Hunt?

Having encountered bears on several occasions like on my brothers porch a few years ago, and more recently having had a very close encounter with a big black bear in the wild;  I have often wondered whether or not I can successfully use the 10mm Automatic for self defense on them.  The same goes for moose as well, I have seen moose more often than I have bears after all.  Having conducted sufficient research by reading handgun hunting magazine articles I have found what it takes to stop a black bear; What you need is a solid slug that is 200 grains and is traveling at least 1000 fps in which case it should kill most any black-bear.  See the hunting article below for reference.    

http://www.foggymountain.com/handgun-bear-hunting.shtml

Side note: Generally speaking any firearm that can generate 500 foot pounds of kinetic energy at 100 yards is more than enough to kill big game (Moose, Bear, Elk, Deer, Pronghorn)

Grey Man Chapter 5: Muzzle Energy

Understanding that penetration is important and that it's recommended to use solid bullets I still decided to use the Gold Dot Hollow Point for my bear load because the GDHP is a bonded bullet that has delayed expansion.  

http://www.speer-ammo.com/products/gold_dot_prsnl.aspx  

The GDHP are designed to penetrate and expand to a particular depth for the .40 Smith and Wesson velocities, so the performance of this bullet is not targeted for 10mm Automatic, but since it's a bonded bullet I have no doubt it will penetrate well at 10mm velocities.  The powder I chose is the Blue Dot which is a product of Alliant. 

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?page=/reloaders/powderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=10&cartridge=30;

They seem to have slightly more hot loads listed than Hornady's reloading manual.  I opted for the lesser volumes of powder in other words 10.5 Grains instead of 11 Grains for safety reasons.  The best first shot you can take for killing a bear is to hit the bears lungs.  Keeping the best first shot in mind I wanted a bullet that would expand, but not prevent penetration.  After you get a solid lung shot, then you can start shooting the bear in other places to effectively stop it and kill it.  Knowing you'll probably need to shoot several times it's wise to select the right gun.  For an idea of how this load will perform I found the following video.

10mm Underwood Video 180 Grain GDHP Click  Here

If you look at the history of the 10mm Auto cartridge, you will find  that it wasn't until the Glock came out that the 10mm Auto had a gun suitable enough and designed well enough to make the system reliable enough to be trustworthy.  Glock makes several models of 10mm Auto and the two which I would suggest are either the Glock model 20 or the Glock model 40.  If you use the Glock model 20, I recommend you add a 6" barrel but it's not required.  You can achieve the stopping power you need with a standard Glock 20.  Like any self defense concept it's important to also be able to deploy the firearm in some precarious situations so I suggest a firearm with available accessories.

Side note:  The below study is in my opinion accurate at showing the difference between 9mm and .45 Auto.

http://wdmc.org/2013/Euthanasia%20Guidelines%20for%20Cattle.pdf

If you ask me what the best firearm is to let the air out of a charging bear or moose I will tell you that you should have a Mossberg 500 12GA loaded with slugs.  Please don't misunderstand; I am not suggesting the 10mm Auto is the best firearm for bears and moose, I am suggesting it's a good choice for a handgun that can stop a bear or a moose.  The 10mm Auto is a good back up for your primary and it's a good choice for carrying when it's not practical to carry a long gun.

You may have thought of the question while reading this article, what about coastal brown bears or polar bears or grizzly bears?  The answer to that question is this.  Let me just say I don't believe in using any handgun for a more certain ability to stop a bear.  However, if you get caught with your pants down so to speak then the 10mm Automatic can kill a grizzly or polar bear if deployed properly.  I remind you, as crazy as it sounds, your first shot should be a lung shot followed by shots that would immediately deter or stop a bears charge/attack.

Glock Magazine Springs Guide  

No matter what gun you are carrying at the time whether it be a .300 Winchester Magnum or a .357 Magnum or a 10mm Auto, the issue of the contest between man and bear is never certain.  I do feel that carrying a Glock 10mm Auto is far more practical in many situations than it is to carry a 12GA, and for that reason I would like to explore 10mm Auto for this purpose.   And lets face it, 15 rounds of full power 10mm Auto shot from a 6" barrel is not something to sneer at.  I think it's probably more comforting than a 6 shooter.  I like knowing I have firepower.

Since I had been carrying the Glock 20 for about 18 years, I really developed a strong trust in that model.  Recently when the Glock model 40 came out, I knew I wanted to try it.  When I first walked into the gun shop to handle it, I instantly knew it was the one.  The new design makes felt recoil much less and the internal components are made of very good materials.  The fact that the new dual spring system was a great improvement sealed the deal.  I have been carrying it ever since and have no complaints.  I really like the longer barrel as well because it adds a significant amount of muzzle energy compared to the Glock 20.

That new model 40 fit's the same Serpa holster as the Glock model 20 but it sticks out a little so I didn't really need to buy a new Serpa holster for it.  I did pick up a nice leather snap-less holster for it, but I prefer the Serpa.  Carrying a Glock in general is good as well because you can swap calibers and still generally speaking have the same experience and you don't have to worry about changing to much of how you perform. 

So Just last weekend, I was doing a little Cow Elk calling and I had my dog and an 11 year old kid with me.  I had my heavy 5.11 72 hour back pack on my back and I had my 12 GA with number 4 bird shot because I was also hunting grouse.  We sat down to do the calling and I was holding my dog in my arms because if I don't hold him, he'll whine which isn't conducive to trying to call in an Elk.  After a few moments of calling I just happened to look over my left shoulder and I saw a big old black bear stalking down on us.  My 12 GA was on the ground or fell to the ground once I noticed the bear and stood up.  I put my dog down real quick and I drew out my Glock model 40 and simultaneously let out a battle cry in preparation to fight the bear.  The bear stopped, kind of jumped up as if startled, then he took about ten rapid steps back stopped, looked at me again, and I think I hollered out again at the bear and he finally ran off.  Make no mistake ladies and fellas, I almost had to use my Glock model 40 10mm Auto 6" barrel to defend my kid, dog and self against a hungry big old black bear.  This would be a good time to mention, that you need to have a good natural instinct to shoot in the correct vital areas if you get charged, I also decided I'll be giving the kid a little bear training.  

I would suggest you learn the Anatomy of a bear because when you are in that charge situation you won't be able to afford to many poor hits.  In particular learn where the lungs and heart are located with a three dimensional realization that at different angles you'll need to adjust for effect, with a charging bear the target that would seem most available would be the face and head, but their skulls are pretty thick, so take what you can get but don't count on a head shot too much because it wouldn't surprise me if a bullet was deflected from the skull.  

During my encounter it was pretty clear that bears are fast and agile, I wouldn't run from them or climb a tree.  I would stand my ground and deliver accurate and repeated fire on their position if you can't scare them off, possibly side step.  I would not stop shooting until your magazine is empty then I would reload and do it again.  Let's face it, the bear might recover if you stop shooting.  I will also mention it may not be a bad idea to use bear spray but I wouldn't use bear spray on a charging sow with cubs, because she will be very determined, and let's look at the facts, pepper spray hurts but it doesn't incapacitate by any means and to be fair I just don't typically carry Bear spray and nor do most people.  I will end this with letting people know that I have no desire to shoot or kill a bear, I have a deep respect and compassion for them, but don't take that too far to the point you get hurt, what I mean is, shoot if you need to.

Here are some links to real life bear defense stories.

www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/whats-hot/brave-senior-rescue-dog-sacrifices-himself-to-save-his-family-when-they-encounter-a-black-bear/ar-BBJDa4J?li=BBnbfcL

http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/2010/05/grizzly-bear-shot-and-killed-hikers-denali-national-park-and-preserve5943

http://www.missoulian.com/news/local/gun-charge-against-man-who-shot-glacier-grizzly-bear-dismissed/article_c8fcff56-540e-11e4-997b-d776d119223d.html

http://www.breitbart.com/sports/2016/08/16/fishing-guide-kills-grizzly-bear-9mm-handgun-charges-female-client/

http://www.nydailynews.com/news/national/alaska-grizzly-shot-death-attacking-house-article-1.1869656


Handgun Selection.

The seven reasons I chose the Glock 10mm for my platform are as follows: 1.) Reliability 2.) Magazine Capacity (firepower) 3.) Ability to add Night Sights. 4.) Availability of Accessories. 5.) Muzzle Energy 6.) Accuracy. 7.) Versatility.  I have been shooting the Glock 10mm for about 18 years and I can say it's probably the most reliable auto loading handgun I have shot.  Don't get me wrong all guns can Jam or fail but in comparison to all other auto loading handguns, the Glock 10mm has jammed or failed the least.  The Glock 10mm is also a fast shooting, accurate and practical firearm that can be used not only for bears and moose but for anything smaller as well.  The durability of the Glock is amazing too, it's an all around excellent choice for any task.

​https://us.glock.com/products/model/g40gen4mos

Shot Placement

When you look at what it takes to kill a bear, you will find out that the best first shot you can make is if you take out the lungs and heart.  Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying you won't want to then shoot the bear in the brain and spine, I'm saying your first shot is best to be through the lungs and if possible the heart also.  You should then follow up with brain or spinal cord if the situation permitted.  Under the intense act of a bear charging, I would at least shoot as continually and as effective as you can.  

​http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=bearbaiting.shooting
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Load Selection.

We know that your first shot should be through the lungs so we know that it would be important to have penetration and to have expansion.  Bear hunters say you should use a solid bullet.  I however believe that as long as you use a bonded bullet, then you can use a hollow point.  The Gold Dot Hollow Point is designed to retain it's mass, it is also designed to expand after it penetrates (delayed expansion) or bullet weight retention; and it is for this reason I chose to use the GDHP for this venture.  We know bear hunters suggest a 200 grain slug traveling at 1000 feet per second, which is basically this load in 45Auto; .45 ACP +P Speer Gold Dot 200 gr; minus the fact it's a hollow point but excepted in my opinion because it's a bonded design; so what about a 180 grain slug traveling at 1300 feet per second? 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sl_n_miLfbY    
You will find the muzzle energy is much higher.  You get 676 foot pounds with the 180 grain at 1300 and you get 17" of penetration through ballistic gelatin as opposed to the 200 grain at 1,000 feet per second which is 444 foot pounds and 12.5 inches of penetration;  see below video for general proof.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mftGL4VY8QQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Otw3GyNxPyU

see for yourself as below is a kinetic energy calculator link.   

 http://www.shooterscalculator.com/bullet-kinetic-energy.php

So, I decided to settle on the 180 grain Gold Dot Hollow Point shot from a 6" barrel in 10mm Auto loading, simply because of the bullets (not cartridge) availability in stores and it's performance.

I have not been able to find a commercially loaded 180 grain gold dot hollow point cartridges for 10mm Auto in the stores in my area.  You can order them online but I don't normally buy ammo online, it's not my preferred procurement method, so  I decided to load them myself.  To achieve the velocities necessary I found that  the Hornady Reloading manual suggests to use up to 10.7 grains of Blue Dot.  I settled on using 10.5 grains of Blue Dot for my load.  I will say however that if you look at Alliant's website they show a load of 11 grains of blue dot.  I decided to stick with the 10.5 because I don't need to over do it, I just need to satisfy the requirement right.
​  http://www.alliantpowder.com/products/powder/blue_dot.aspx

If you are not interested in loading your own then the best over the counter 10mm load that I was able to find in stores in my area are the HPR 180 grain hollow points.  They load these to be powerful enough to meet the criteria.  I would feel okay carrying this ammo as well.   The other thing you can do is buy the loads online; I suppose you could try the below if you wanted to.
​
https://www.underwoodammo.com/10mm-auto-180-grain-bonded-jacketed-hollow-point/ 

​http://www.tednugent-ammo.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=746 

http://www.hprammo.com/catalog/jhp/10mm-29/

​http://www.speer-ammo.com/products/gold_dot_prsnl.aspx   

​http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?page=/reloaders/powderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=10&cartridge=30
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How to carry in bear country.

I have plenty of experience engaging in outdoor activities and I know enough to select the proper carry system.  The main principles of a holster to carry should include a safe holster that is quick to draw from but also retains the handgun in a scuffle or a fall.  The best holster for this task is the Blackhawk Serpa.  The Serpa allows for a fast draw but it also keeps you from losing your handgun if you fall in a river or down a steep hill in thick brush.  The magazine holder should exhibit relatively quick to draw a magazine from but is going to make sure you don't lose your magazines when you slip down a hill or fall in a lake.  After having lost many of magazines in the woods under those circumstances I have dead set myself on using snap style magazine holders.  I recommend the Uncle Mikes snap style magazine holders. 

Pro Tip:  Cant- your Glock model 20 Serpa "holster" to the front a notch to help keep the muzzle of the Glock Model 40 from hitting ground or vehicle seat while sitting down or riding in a car.
​
http://www.blackhawk.com/Products/Product-Promos/Serpa-Holsters.aspx

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 I took the below information from the Utah DWR Bear Orientation Course.

​https://wildlife.utah.gov/hunting-in-utah.html

In the spring, bears in Utah emerge from their dens from the third week in April through the fourth week in May. Males generally emerge about 1-2 weeks prior to females, and they are most susceptible to harvest the last weeks of April and first week of May. The peak week of emergence for males is mid to late April. Most females emerge during the first 2 weeks of May. Adult males leave dens earlier and wander more than females. In the spring, therefore, males are more available to hunters than adult females, and are more susceptible to harvest.

In Utah, bears will generally stop feeding and enter dens in late October through mid-November. In years with abundant fall foods, such as acorns, bears often continue to move and feed for 3-4 additional weeks and don't enter dens in mid-November through December.

Pregnant females usually enter dens prior to other females and males, but hunters should not consider date to be a reliable predictor of the sex of bears encountered during the fall months.

Bear Tracks

Young bears have smaller feet and leave smaller tracks and shorter strides than adults. Adult male bears usually have larger feet than female bears: The front foot tracks are one of the most important clues: male tracks are usually wider than 4.5 inches, but females are usually less than 4.5 inches wide.

BEAR TRACK MEASUREMENTS
Bear paw graphic depicting how to measure its width
Most adult male bears in Utah (42% of those sampled) had pad widths equal to or greater than 4¾ inches.
 Very few (7%) of females had front pad widths greater than 4½ inches

Proportion of Females in Harvest

In a lightly harvested population, there are many surplus males produced that will wander more and be more susceptible to harvest. If hunting is more aggressive, however, the proportion of females that are harvested will be higher. As more males are harvested, there will be fewer surplus males to harvest and then when females are harvested, the reproductive potential of the population is reduced. More females harvested means fewer females left in the population, and fewer females on the landscape means fewer bears.

Adult male bears are usually larger than females. A large male bear often weighs between 175-200 pounds but they can grow to over 300 pounds. Adult females are typically 130 to 150 pounds. Don't only use size to determine if a bear is male or female; in the fall, for example, female bears without cubs can be much larger than females that are nursing bears all summer.
Adult bears are more bulky and stocky than thin-bodied and long-legged yearlings and subadults.
Head shape and ears provide good clues for telling males and females apart. Mature males have rounded heads and necks that appear short. Their ears are more short and rounded, and are set farther apart. Females and young bears usually have thinner necks and snouts, and may appear to have longer legs. Females and young bears have ears that appear large and set close together.
Characteristics of adult female bears:
• Smaller and leaner looking, appearing as long as they are tall
• They have elongated muzzles, flatter foreheads and bigger looking ears set closer together
• The vulva may be visible when if they are "in heat," typically in June
• They will have enlarged teats if they are nursing young
• They urinate toward the back
• If the teats of a female in a tree are large enough to be readily observed from below, it probably has nursing cubs nearby. Cubs may nurse as late as August-September
• They may be more cautious and slow when entering a bait site

Characteristics of adult male bears:
  • Have more blocky and rectangular bodies
  • Have bigger front feet
  • They have wider and rounder and more muscular heads necks and shoulders
  • Their ears look smaller on their heads and are set farther apart
  • May have a furrow running down the center of their forehead
  • Have a penis sheath hanging down in front of the hind legs and testicles between the hind legs
  • Urinate toward the front
  • They may be less cautious when entering a bait site.

Bears generally do not travel in groups unless they are a female with offspring. The female may be accompanied by cubs (born in the den that year), or the previous year's offspring (yearlings). In the spring, females may park cubs in secure trees while they forage, so look for tracks of cubs and evidence of nursing before harvesting. Females with cubs are illegal to take or pursue.
Adult bears will sometimes feed close together to share concentrated food sources, such as acorns in oak stands. When hunting where foods are concentrated, extra care must be taken to determine the age and composition of bears. It will be useful to watch the animals for some period of time and examine their relative sizes and weights and to determine if they are actually traveling with one another or only feeding near one another.

The DWR tries to place radio collars on bears throughout the state of Utah. The radio collars are one way that we can collect important biological information on bears. Every spring the DWR will find bears in their dens using the signal from radio collars. We can also determine the number of cubs that a female has going through the winter and help estimate the population growth over time. In other cases bears with radio collars may be part of research projects with Universities. Because it is hard to replace radio collars if the animal dies or is harvested we request that hunters pass over radio collared animals.



Conclusion:  10mm Auto is a good choice

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  • Tactics of Street Survival
    • Statistical, Situational and Anatomy Based Shot Placement, and Shot Number Guide:
    • Special Skills
    • Use of Deadly Force Utah
    • BEST FIREARM CHOICE FOR SHTF
    • Handgun for Bear and Moose Defense
    • COVER AND CONCEALMENT
    • Is Body Armor Important?
    • Handgun Stopping Power
    • DEADLY TACTICAL MISTAKES
    • Night Vision
    • CORRECTING A MALFUNCTION
    • TEAM FIREFIGHTING
    • How to Choose a handgun
    • Semi Automatic Shotgun Vs. Pump Action Shotgun
  • Getting in Shape for the hunt 2017
  • Elk and Deer Hunting Tips Tactics 2017
  • Elk Hunt Rifle and Gear
  • Utah General Buck Hunt
  • Survival
    • BEST SURVIVAL FIREARM
    • Survival Knife
    • Fear of getting lost in the woods? Top tips on how to use a GPS
    • Winter Wilderness Survival
    • Bug Out or Get Home
  • 10 Tips For Hunting Public Land in Utah
  • Elk Hunting Utah 2016
  • .223 or 5.56mm Deer hunt ammo selection
  • Spike Elk Hunt 2018
  • Hunting Utah 2018
  • GLOCK MODEL 40 MOS Gen 4 10mm Auto REVIEW
    • Glock Magazine Springs Guide
    • Ruger LCP .380 Auto Gen 2 Review
  • Tactical Single Point Sling
    • Barricade Home for SHTF
    • TACTICAL RESPONSE VEST
    • Blog
  • Ragnar Trail Relay
  • Grey Man Chapter 1: Grey Man Technique
    • Grey Man Chapter 2: Psychology
    • Grey Man Chapter 3: .38 Special
    • Grey Man Chapter 4: New Beginnings
    • Grey Man Chapter 5: Muzzle Energy
    • Grey Man Chapter 6: Shotguns for Survival
    • GREY MAN Chapter 7: Tactical Lights, Mounted and hand held.
    • Grey Man Chapter 8: Russian Invasion
    • Grey Man Chapter 9: Grid Down Scenario
    • Grey Man Chapter 10: Grid Down Part 2
    • Grey Man Chapter 11: Clowns
    • Grey Man Chapter 12: Equipment Check
    • Grey Man Chapter 13: Special Forces
    • Grey Man Chapter 14: EMP Attack
    • Grey Man Chapter 15: Dealing with Neighbors in SHTF
    • Grey Man Chapter 16: Shooting Moving Targets
    • Grey Man Chapter 17: Home Defense